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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian blend podi – a rubble of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces starchy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, scattered with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.